【Introduction to Traditional Crafts】 ~Awa Shoai Shijira Weave (Tokushima Prefecture)~
2023.02.17 
About Japan's Traditional Crafts
【name】
Awa Shoai Shijira weave
【Production area of Awa Shoai Shijira weave】
Tokushima City, Tokushima Prefecture
【What is Awa Shoai Shijira weave?】
A cotton yarn fabric produced in Tokushima City, Tokushima Prefecture.
Since the 18th century, Awa has been making shijira-ori, a fabric with a unique wrinkled pattern, by alternately arranging “stretched warp” and “loosen warp”.
Shijira weave dyed with this Awa indigo is Awa Shoai Shijira weave.
In July 1978, it was designated as a traditional craft.
※”Shijira” refers to creases that appear on the surface of the fabric when either the warp or the weft is shrunk.
【Features of Awa Shoai Shijira weave】
The characteristic is the uneven wrinkles on the surface of the fabric called “Shibo”.
The Shibo improves the texture and does not become sticky even when sweating.
It is popular as a clothing item because it is comfortable to wear even in hot weather.
Indigo, known around the world as “Japan Blue” as a representative color of Japan, has long been used in kimonos and yukatas.
Recently, not only clothing items such as shirts and ties, but also interior goods such as tapestries and luncheon mats have been produced.
With the advent of products that can be used casually in everyday life, more and more people are fascinated by the ease of use and the beauty of their colors.
【History of Awa Shoai Shijira weave】
The birth year of Awa Shoai Shijira-ori is 1866.
The Shijira weaving technique was accidentally discovered by Ms. Hana Kaifu, who lived in Ataka Village, Awa Province at the time.
Hana was drying a cotton fabric called “Tataejima,” which was very popular in Awa Province.
It will rain and the wet fabric will shrink.
However, Hana’s eyes were captivated by the nice bumpy texture on the surface of the wet fabric.
Then she came up with the idea of intentionally making textured fabrics.
In order to bring her ideas to life, Hana immerses herself in her research, trial and error.
After her efforts, she perfected the technique of making shibo by adjusting the tension of the warp threads.
Shijira-ori, which has the triple threat of “cheap, light, and cool,” quickly spread throughout Awa.
In addition, the cultivation of indigo in Awa Province was encouraged by the lord of Tokushima, Hachisuka, and Awa indigo was actively cultivated along the Yoshino River.
Until the Meiji period, the production volume of indigo produced in Awa accounted for about 25% of the national share, and the quality as a dye was high.
Naturally, Awa indigo came to be used for shijira weave.
Due to the coincidence of the invention of shijira weave and the active cultivation of Awa indigo, it has become popular as casual clothing.
Even now, it has established its position as a traditional industry that Tokushima Prefecture is proud of.
【Production process of Awa Shoai Shijira weave】
①Raise “Kase”
Kase is a loop of thread.
A special machine is used to wind the thread, which is the basis of the fabric, around the tube.
By bundling the threads together, it makes it easier to dye.
②Dyeing
referring source：Lacycle
②Dyeing
This is the process of dyeing Kase.
In addition to natural indigo, chemical dyes are also used to create various colors.
With indigo dyeing, the color becomes darker in proportion to the length of time the thread is soaked in indigo.
③Rinse with water
In order to bring out the original color of Awa indigo, the dyed threads are washed with water many times.
④Sun drying
After washing the threads with water, put funori on them and dry them in the sun while taking care not to make the threads fuzzy.
When indigo comes into contact with air, it oxidizes, revealing a more beautiful color.
Indigo dyeing is not completed just once.
By repeating the process of “dyeing → washing with water → drying in the sun” over and over again, the craftsman gets closer to the desired color.
⑤Thread reeling
This is the process of winding the threads that have been dyed indigo around a thread frame.
⑥Warping and weft winding
Warping is the process of aligning warp threads to the number and length required for weaving.
In addition, weft winding refers to the work of threading the weft through a loom tool called a shuttle.
⑦Weaving
It is a process of weaving to create a shibo while adjusting the tension by adjusting the number and combination of warp and weft threads.
It is woven while changing the combination of plain weave and pull yarn.
⑧Dry finish
Once the fabric is woven, it is dipped in hot water to bring out the shibo.
Once dried, the Awa Shoai Shijira weave is complete.